Antwerp for visitors

Dear Sisters,
It is grey outside. I have the flu'. With it comes a moodiness that I know not how to temper. Never mind. Luckily here is a list I made up recently upon request of an out of town visitor. Since we have received similar requests via this blog I thought I might as well share it here. Many things could be added to this list, but hey, it's somewhere to begin. Trust you both had a healthy happy homecoming, shall visit you both, and soon.
S2

S2's Antwerp Top Ten.
1. Visit Saturday Market on the Theaterplein. There is a Moroccan stand where there are usually very long queues for the delicious pancakes. It works like this: they ask you (in French or Dutch or whatever language works for you) what you would like in it: “alles” (everything) gets you a filling of feta cheese, chilli’s, olives, figs, dripping with honey. Then you buy a mint tea. There are tables to sit at.

2. Opera: Antwerp has a fantastic opera house and the productions are world class. They also do concerts and lunchtime concerts. It is a lovely way to spend an evening and they have an elaborate foyer where you can enjoy a glass of something during the intermission. It is great to dress up for, but people also go casually dressed. You can usually get standby tickets for very modest prices.

3. Around the corner Brasserie Gustav, the opera café near Central Station, is a super place to have dinner before the performance, or a drink afterwards. The interior is European continental with little booths and sometimes live music. They serve an excellent Caesar salad. If you are passing in the middle of the day, they also have very good coffee; but the HOT CHOCOLATE is something to die for: you get chocolate seeds to stir into piping hot milk. The Chicken Club sandwich is a full meal. The onion soup with toast and cheese at 8 Euros is a great deal and delicious too. Gustav belongs to the same owners as Berlin (more central), Canal and Zurich (both in the South neighbourhood near fashion stores and galleries)

4. Rubenshuis and Rockox huis: for beginners, Rubens’ Palazzo and huge atelier is well worth a visit to get a whiff of Antwerp’s illustrious past. They also have works by Rubens’ contemporaries. I love the leather-wallpapered walls and the majolica tiles in some of the rooms. The chapel is really lovely with a host of smaller artworks in it. They frequently put on excellent temporary exhibitions. A rare, more silent counterpart (fewer tourists) is the Rockox house. He was Mayor of Antwerp and a friend of Rubens; his house is filled with artefacts from the period, very diverse, some tapestries, lovely treasure cabinets etc. On your way to the Rockox house you may encounter the Conscience Plein and the Baroque Carolus Boromeus (also worth taking a peak). You can get a nice coffee on the square. Be careful, at the exit of the square at the bottom (in the little street to the left of the church) there is an amazing new second hand bookshop. If you have a weakness for such things you may not move on from there empty-handed (they have a number of books in a number of languages, all high quality). The prices are reasonable. Literature, philosophy, history, and notably some gorgeous art books.

5. Plantijn Moretusmuseum, Vrijdagmarkt. This museum is the somehow miraculously preserved printing press which formed one of the world’s first centres of spreading information worldwide. Some of the first atlases were printed here. I just find walking in its spaces (and the interior garden with ivy clad walls) a treat because of the atmosphere. It is a jewel in the centre of town. It is a UNESCO world heritage site and you can understand why.

6. MoMu Fashion Museum + Fashion walk. I always tell people this is one of the best things Antwerp has to offer. Exhibitions are usually a fantastic visual treat. For those who are sensitive to beauty. You will appreciate the way they approach exhibitions as if it were a fashion show production, careful attention to lighting and thematic displays. The accompanying fashion walk (a little book for 4-6 Euros (available for purchase in Copyright, the museum’s bookshop) is great fun: it takes you around some key Antwerp fashion points and stores; giving insight into the buzz around Antwerp fashion. It makes you feel how everything is sort of within walking distance: for example near the MoMu is Dries Van Noten’s flagship store: the window designs are worth a peek. Opposite is Boonen (?) the Glove Shop. It’s a real beauty. The book will guide you and give you ideas about where to shop! For high street stores there is Antwerp’s MEIR pedestrian shopping street. Worth a visit is the Stadsfeestzaal now developed into a mall. The building actually is great. Inside there is a Champagne POD. If you have something to celebrate, go there! They even give you a free glass if it is your birthday (upon showing ID). The view up there is great and it is a real treat.

7. Walk along the river Scheldt: before the developers get in, enjoy the waste land along the quays, running from Antwerp South (approx. at height of Muhka museum for contemporary art) until you reach the centre with the raised promenade. Depending on where you are staying it is a great place to see the sunset. The ZUIDERTERRAS is a good place to eat, if you ask them nicely they will also let you simply have a drink and contemplate the view of the river. There is also the pedestrian tunnel taking you to the left bank (Linkeroever) if you are feeling courageous and like a walk. The tunnel is Art Deco science fiction. Across the water you have a great view of the city and cafés for sustenance. (that’s if you really feel like a trek).

8. At the end of the quays (on the right bank, city-side), you see the river turns, and a big red building called the MAS. If it is open, you can experience the incredible 1600 M2 Luc Tuymans mosaic, “Dead Skull”. It depicts a memorial stone to Quentin Metsys which is to the left of the entrance to Antwerp Cathedral of Our Lady. Which is definitely worth a visit. If you are standing facing the entrance there is a street to the left where you will find the Witzli Puzli where they also have amazing hot chocolate, beers, port, chess, newspapers and good jazz music. Near the Cathedral there are several places for eating Mussels. If you like this food I recommend it. I try to eat them at least once a year. ☺

9. Hopper This jazz café owned by Dutch jazz musician from Suriname, Mary Hehuat, is not to be missed. In the evening you go there for a Demi-Demi, half cava and half white wine. The bubbles instantly go to your head. On some evenings they have good jazz concerts, also Sunday afternoons, depending on the season. I love this place. Writers, actors, lawyers and other strays go there to hang out. In the afternoon it is really good for a latte and a newspaper (they have several on the piano). It is also a good place after a night of too much partying, to have a pretty basic continental breakfast. You get bread rolls and croissants (according to your choice) and the service is extremely friendly. ☺

10. Pierre Marcolini Chocolates. Next to the Bourla Theatre. Eat some of these amazing work of art chocolates and go to heaven.

Soft and bouncy landing bubble

Dear sisters,

One good friend gave me the following advice: whatever you do, don't complain about the weather.

Most other repatriates said: be prepared, your friends are not particularly interested in your adventures in Bali/San Francisco..where were you again during the last five years? You were really away that long?

And. They continued. Maybe good friends will tolerate one evening of reminiscing: listening, smiling and saying, that sounds great, but when it comes down to it, it is your experience to keep and treasure. This may be hard.

I don't blame them, who wants to hear too much about someone else's sabbatical in the tropics?

I have therefore wrapped Bali up carefully in hand-pressed-batiked tissue paper and slipped it under my bed, to take out when needed.

For now, we are still in a rainbow coated bubble, filled with happy gas, which is rolling us through the streets of Amsterdam.

The kids both had a huge grin on their faces coming from the airport as they looked out of the taxi at the snow lined tree tops. They skated on natural ice at Christmas. At this point, this is what we call exotic. They got presents.





We have all been gorging ourselves on fresh brown bread from the bakery around the corner, sticky on the inside and crunchy on the outside, spreading it with hagelslag (chocolate bits) or smeerworst (sorry foodies, it is animal unfriendly and maximally processed - I will not translate). We have been eating cheese and chocolate and drinking red wine daily. It is Christmas after all.



This will have to stop soon, we have good food intentions, but we have to get it out of our system.

Before we left, I was reading some Dutch opinion magazines that guests had left behind, and every article seemed to have a negative and/or sarcastic slant to it. Oh no, I thought. I have either been in America too long or, I am now seeing the Dutch nature as it truly is.

But so far the "I smile, you smile back" principle" generously applied in San Francisco is working here too, and even the Amsterdam taxi drivers appear to be happy people, just to confuse us.

It is sale time, and we need winter clothes, so there has been some that.

Housing? We still have a whole week to get that organized. Schools? I think they start tomorrow. Income? Lovely winter weather out there.



I realize we are still in vacation mode. Real life hasn't started yet, and I will do some grumbling next post, but for now, just letting you know: this city girl is happy to be back in town.

Happy New Year to all. May you be healthy, happy and free.

How many more days?

That is what Rosie asks. How many more days before we go? The day after the day after tomorrow. She is excited but I doubt she realizes what awaits her. How long are we staying in Holland? She then asks. For a long time, I say.

My last havianas have snapped with a dramatic flip and a flop. This is a sign, I think.

I am making a list of things to look forward to: drinking water out of the tap, cheese and red wine, clear thoughts in crisp cold air, while savoring the things we will miss: the green, green, the tri-weekly massage, and being able to text with my doctor.

There are other things: certain yoga teachers, the Greenschool and Bali friends. But no time to be sentimental. We have some last minute nasi campur to eat, photos of palm trees to take and gekko/frog symphonies to listen to.




How is it in the real world?

S1

jumping gymnastics and the view from my windowsill when it was not snowing

Dear all,
Greetings from the deep middle european continent, again. Its 4 p.m. and it is dark blue outside. It is snowing. A lot. It's cold. VERY. The predicted minus ten has been reached.

So here I present you with a little guide on how to keep warm :
wear lots of woolly jumpers, if you can wear a pair of tights under your trousers then do so, two pairs of socks , fleece jumpers and lithuanian hanknitted mittens, a woolly hat and hood on coat and wrap a woolly scarf around the half of your face. Then waddle out of the house, catch a tram and woddle to school. Whilst waiting for the tram , which can take a long time due to the snow delays then I strongly reccomend jumping about on two legs. Basically , when it is this cold you should try to adapt gymnastics to your everyday life where ever you are.

Here is a french man demonstrating the possibilities of gymnastics in everyday life. Its a little bit silly but it made me laugh , which is also a great way of keeping warm :) I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.
How to keep the cold out !

Its funny , but did I mention that my most important subject for the first three years in the Fine Arts Academy of Prague was gymastics ? If I was to fail this subject I would have been kicked out of school, so it's a good thing I quite enjoy a bit of excercise.

Anyway, long live gymnastics and keeping warm and happy ! All my love and I'm very much looking forward to christmas and seeing you all ! Here is a little song to get you into the mood for our festive family reunion.
Happy song

Happy Sinterklaas,
Take care and have a peaceful end of year.
S3

relax your inner ear and pictures of organic bali chicks

Dear sisters,

If I say, I have been taking the first steps towards skillfully creating banks around a pool of internal energy, in order to make a river of Consciousness, that flows back into the ocean of supreme bliss, what would you say?

You might say it is time for me to return to a continent with four seasons.

Or you could say, wow, how was your yoga retreat? That sounds amaaazing.

It was very nice in fact, thank you for asking.

Learning about the tantric, non dualistic principles underlying anusara yoga, in which I was being immersed for five days at Desa Seni village resort, I found I could say yes, okay, uh, huh, to most things. The inflated language occasionally made my big body shudder, as it sometimes does when the G.- word is used a lot, but once we got past the definition obstacles, I was encouraged by it all.

Encouraged to learn more, dipping my toe into the swamp of eastern spiritual literature, which you could say is a little late, two and a half weeks before returning to the northern hemisphere. A. jumped into the swamp many months before me and has already pulled himself out by his tanned yogic arms, to embrace other focused books like "Crucibles of leadership", "Crossing the Chasm: marketing and selling technology", "The Facebook Effect" and similar page turners.

So, as I sit on my meditation cushion overlooking the green, green, frogs croaking, bells tinkling in my ear, my husband is making excel sheets for a new internet start- up idea, that he is tossing around.

We are being Bali about our departure, or return, depending on how you look at it. Hopefully with less suitcases than with which we came, we will arrive in Amsterdam with our lives wide open once more: housing, schooling and income all yet to be decided.

Maybe I will take a few more massages before we get on the plane then.

Love S1

Estrahno forma de vida

Dear sisters ,
I am in the mood for songs about destiny.With the night falling at five i get quite nostalgic and i feel like wrapping myself up in a warm melancholic duvet blanket.
Please listen to this beautiful song by AMALIA RODRIGUEZ
, the icon portuguese Fado singer. So you can get into the mood of my tales to come.
And here is a visual helper of how i was feeling a few weeks ago.




By the way, November isn't my best month. Last week i woke up with a blocked nerve in my back and i couldnt move my neck in any direction,I felt like a cardboard theatre prop with a cupboard painted on it. You can imagine its not easy for a cupboard to go the cinema, but that is exactly what i did as i couldnt do anything else, even lying down was painful. The latest Woody Allen film cheered me up , even though laughing was painful , it helped me forget feeling sorry for myself. After the film I went a bit wild and bought myself a hot water bottle and a fleece jumper with a hood.
I also bought myself a bottle of whiskey to reduce the pain. i told you November is not my best month but there are some high lights. I can assure you I only drink a little whiskey with hot tea and lots of honey. This , as you might know , is our Nanna's recipe for any kind of malaise or illness. I am happy to confirm my back has been completely cured. i wore my fleece jumper with a hot water bottle in the back for about four days. i think the Nostrodamus look is back , seen in Prague first !

But I have another brilliant cure which is to go to Lisbon for five days for a drawing conference, which funnily enough is exactly what i did last week.
I have fallen inlove with Lisbon , i felt like i went up in a balloon and floated there looking at all the beauty for five days.







It is like a city of faded chandelier glass and colour. A prism of different shades of blue and broken painted tiles. The churches are filled with paintings on tiles from top to ceiling.





Breathtaking and an overwhelming feeling of being blessed.
I saw a double rainbow , what more can i say ?


Now im back in Prague again and i have crashed, fallen from my portuguese balloon.
But all in good spirit. My ring finger nail of my left hand has been surgically removed by one third ,
because of a very heavy ceramic boot that fell on it in the summer. The new nail remembered the bump and was starting to grow into my skin which was quite painful,
so i went to a doctor and she said i had to get it removed as soon as possible.
So the next day I went to the hospital and an hour later i walked out with a huge bandage round my finger. I wont give you too many details , it didnt hurt , I got two anesthetic injections in my finger, it blew up like a balloon, and then i had to lie down and the doctor asked the assistent to get the finest scissors from the draw. He lifted a long metallic tool about the size of a shoebox from the draw, saying , Are these the finest we have ?
At that point i turned my head to the right, squinshed my eyes and refused to look. He kept tugging at my hand and asking if it hurt, i mumpled not really. But the worst of all were the noises, like he was cutting into thick cardboard.
Hence again my cardboard prop feeling coming back to me.
Afterwards i went for a strong coffee and serious dark chocolate cake with A. It helped.
I am not able to do any washing up of dishes to my great dissapointment and to that of A's. I am also not able to wash any clothes with our prehistoric washing machine , which deserves a post of it's own.
A. is very helpful and patient with me.
Im just taking it easy and pondering about how i will create art work for the next five months until the nail grows back. I have tried drawing with my right hand but it looks like a three year old has been scribbling in a book which could be quite interesting for a while. Maybe i can draw with my feet , or my mouth? The time has come for a change in my art style.
Lets just hope for the best. This is me pondering :



Here are a few songs that make me feel nice and warm. The first one is by SADE,called
Bring me home

And here is a song that cheers me up , its a song about the sea

All my love and good luck with the move over there in Bali ! I would take as little as possible. And take care !
Bon voyage !
Peace
S3

Only 27 days.

Dear sisters,

Last Thursday was the day puppies were offered to the demons. I mentioned this practice on the blog before.

All over Bali, puppies were killed and skinned. Sate sticks were made of puppy meat, to offer with the skin. During a ceremony, a pig was slaughtered by piercing a knife into its throat, collecting the blood that ran clear, and finally, the blood spilled at the traditional cockfight was also added to the mix: a mighty potion to appease the demons coming from the sea, at this halfway point of the Balinese calendar. It is a bad month.

In the evening the villagers walked in procession to the village borders, dressed in finery, carrying the symbols of their temples, in an attempt to keep the demons out for another year. I saw the processions, but got the gory bits from my main source, Nyoman, of course.

In the week that this was happening, I was practising yoga twice a day on a marble balcony, overlooking the green, green, as my yoga teacher from San Francisco felt inspired by the gentle nature of the Balinese.



It is my yoga time. I am cramming it in before we return. Two days of rest after a week’s retreat, before I dive into a five-day immersion in the South. Will I be able to do a handstand, before we go? I dream about flying up lightly, my legs straight and elegant, but it proves a deception once I awaken. My body is still a bulging sack of potatoes, unsuccessfully attempting to defy gravity.

We had an unexpected house-guest, who came for dinner and did not leave for two weeks. We met before, during a yoga retreat in Greece, and she turned up in Ubud, we ran into her, and so she came and provided all members of the family with stories to entertain. We expect to see her again.

Today, Sinterklaas came to Bali. It was a very hot day and the parents sweat a lot, as they waited for it to end. The children sang song after song in utter confusion and eventually lined up for a bag of sweets with a notebook. Kroketten and friet on presentation of the coupon. Rosie had been up before six, showering in our bathroom to get ready for the man. I find it hard to get into that Sint Nicholas feeling in the tropics.



And now? We count down. Less than four weeks to go, before we return to the European lowlands: a bit more than a month before we meet again, elastic baby and sock sister.

With love,

S1